Winter Paw Care & Protection for Dogs: Prevent Cracked Pads and Chemical Burns

Posted by Grange Co-op on 9th Jan 2026

Winter brings unique challenges for our canine companions—whether they’re working dogs or city dwellers navigating salted sidewalks. Snow, ice, chemical deicers, and freezing temperatures can wreak havoc on paw pads, causing painful cracks, chemical burns, and loss of traction. The good news? With the right prevention routine and maintaining nail and paw hair length—you can keep your dog comfortable and safe all season long.

Why Winter Is Hard on Dog Paws

Dog paw pads are remarkably tough, but winter conditions test their limits. Here’s what your dog faces when temperatures drop:

Chemical deicers are everywhere—on sidewalks, driveways, parking lots, and roads. Even if you avoid salt at home, your dog will encounter it on walks. Chloride-based salts and chemical blends can irritate, dry out, and even burn sensitive paw tissue. Granules lodge between toes, causing discomfort and excessive licking (which can lead to an upset stomach if ingested, potentially resulting in vomiting and diarrhea).

Freeze-thaw cycles and rugged terrain create the ideal conditions for cracked pads. Prolonged exposure to these cold, abrasive surfaces strips away natural oils, leaving pads dry and chapped.

Snowballing between toes is a painful problem, especially for dogs with longer hair between their pads. Compacted snow and ice pull on skin, alter gait, and reduce traction—making every step uncomfortable.

Cold-induced dryness happens because winter air lacks humidity. Just as your own skin becomes chapped, paw pads dry out and lose elasticity. Vasoconstriction (narrowing of blood vessels in response to cold) also slows the natural healing of minor abrasions.

Boots vs. Balms: Sizing and When to Choose

Both boots and balms have their place in winter paw care. The right choice depends on your dog’s activity level, the conditions you’re facing, and your dog’s tolerance for footwear.

When to Choose Boots:

Extended time outdoors: Long walks, hikes, or active outdoor play sessions on ice, sharp gravel, or crusted snow.
Dogs with compromised pads: Already cracked pads, recurrent sensitivity, or repeated exposure to heavily salted surfaces.
Maximum protection: When you need both a physical barrier against chemicals and improved traction on slippery surfaces

Important considerations: Proper fit is crucial, poor fitting boots can rub, slip off, or restrict movement. Most dogs need a training period to accept footwear, so start gradually with positive reinforcement.

When to Choose Balms and Waxes:

Shorter outings: Quick bathroom breaks, moderate walks, and light snow exposure.
Prevention for healthy pads: Before problems start, or as a protective base layer under boots.
Dogs who refuse boots: A barrier is better than nothing

Important considerations: Reapply as conditions demand; strictly avoid ingredients like tea tree oil, which can be toxic to dogs if licked; skip heavily fragranced products that may cause irritation.

How to Size Boots (Step-by-Step)

1. Stand and measure: Place your dog’s front paw on a piece of paper while they’re standing and bearing weight. Mark the width at the widest point (usually across the main pad).

2. Measure width: With a tape measure or rule, measure the width of the paw.

3. Consult the sizing chart: Compare your measurements to the manufacturer’s chart. Remember that front paws are often slightly larger than rear paws—measure and size accordingly.

4. Check the fit: The boot should be snug but not constricting. You should be able to slip a pinky finger under the securing strap. The toe box should allow natural toe spread without curling the nails.

5. Practice makes perfect: Start with 5 to 10 minute indoor sessions with lots of treats and praise. Gradually extend the time as your dog adjusts to the sensation.

Applying Balm or Wax

Clean and dry pads thoroughly before application
Apply a thin, even layer to all pad surfaces and between toes (especially if your dog is prone to snowballing)
Pre-walk: Apply 10–15 minutes before heading outside so it can absorb
Post-walk: Reapply after rinsing and drying if pads look or feel dry

Rinse & Dry Routine After Deicer Exposure

Even pet-safe ice melt can irritate sensitive paw tissue. Rinsing removes granules and chemical residue that cause redness, burning, and compulsive licking. This simple, 2-minute, routine prevents most deicer-related problems.

1. Set up a paw-washing station: Keep a shallow pan or bucket near your entry door.

2. Dip and swish: Add lukewarm water (not hot) to your pan. Guide each paw into the water and gently swish. Use a soft cloth or your fingers to wipe between toes and around nails where granules hide.

3. Dry thoroughly: Pat each paw completely dry with a towel, paying extra attention to the webbing between toes—trapped moisture leads to chapping and irritation.

4. Inspect as you go: Look for cracks, embedded granules, redness, or any signs of bleeding. Catch problems early.

5. Optional balm application: If pads look or feel dry, apply a light coat of moisturizing balm.

6. Boot care: If your dog wears boots, rinse them after each outing and allow them to air-dry completely before the next use.

Nail Length & Paw Hair Trimming for Winter Traction

Proper grooming isn’t just about appearance, it’s essential for winter safety and comfort.

Nail Trimming

Long nails force toes to splay outward, reducing the contact area between pads and ground. This means less traction on ice and snow, and more slipping. When your dog stands naturally, nails shouldn’t touch the ground. You should see a small clearance between nail tip and floor.

Use quality nail clippers or a grinder, taking off small amounts at a time to avoid the quick (the blood vessel inside the nail). If you’re new to nail trimming, ask your veterinarian or groomer to show you the technique, or have them handle regular trims.

Interdigital Hair (Hair Between Pads)

Excess hair between pads acts like a magnet for snow and ice. Compacted snowballs pull on skin, compromise traction, and make walking painful. Hair should be trimmed flush with the pad edges—short enough to prevent snowballing, but not so short you risk nicking the skin.

Use blunt-tip grooming scissors or a guarded pet trimmer. Gently lift the hair between pads and cut parallel to the pad surface. Work slowly and carefully. If you’re unsure, ask a groomer to establish the baseline length, then maintain it yourself every 2–3 weeks throughout winter.

Your Complete Winter Paw Kit:

Having the right supplies on hand makes winter paw care simple and consistent. Here is our list of everything you need for your winter paw care kit:

Paw Balm or Wax: Choose unscented formulas made with food-grade oils and waxes. Avoid products containing tea tree oil or strong essential oils.

https://www.grangecoop.com/super-snouts-rad-pad-soothing-paw-balm-2-oz/

https://www.grangecoop.com/skouts-honor-prebiotic-pet-balm-2-oz/

https://www.grangecoop.com/eb-treatment-balm/

Dog Boots: Look for winter-specific tread patterns, secure adjustable straps, and multiple size options. Keep a spare strap in your kit for quick field repairs.

https://www.grangecoop.com/alcott-explorer-adventure-dog-boots/

Pet-Safe Ice Melt: Even “pet-safe” products should be used according to directions and rinsed from paws. Store in a sealed, dry container.

https://www.grangecoop.com/safe-step-6300-eco-platinum-series-enviro-blend-ice-melter/

Quick-Dry Dog Towel: Microfiber absorbs moisture fast and dries quickly between uses.

https://www.grangecoop.com/dgs-dirty-dog-shammy-towel-gray/

Paw Grooming Supplies: Nail clippers or smoothers, blunt-tip grooming scissors, styptic powder (in case of minor bleeding) are all essentials to keep on hand.

https://www.grangecoop.com/coastal-pet-safari-guillotine-dog-nail-trimmer/