Lickity Split Philodendron - 6"

Philodendron Lickety Split is a hybrid cultivar of Philodendron selloum, a member of the Araceae (aroid) family native to the tropical rainforests of South America. It is distinguished by its exceptionally large, deeply lobed and split leaves, which give the plant its playful name. Each leaf features dramatic finger-like lobes along the margins with wavy, curling edges, creating a silhouette that is unlike nearly any other common houseplant. The glossy leaf surface reflects light beautifully, and newly emerging leaves display a bright lime-green color before deepening to a rich, dark jungle green at full maturity. Unlike many philodendrons, Lickety Split is a self-heading variety — meaning it does not vine or climb, but instead grows in a dense, upright clump from a central base. Each leaf is genuinely unique in shape, so no two look exactly alike, giving the plant an organic, living sculptural quality. Common alternate names include Lacy Tree Philodendron and Horsehead Philodendron.

When grown as a houseplant, Philodendron Lickety Split typically reaches approximately 2 to 3 feet in both height and spread at full maturity, forming a full, rounded clump. Individual leaves can grow impressively large as the plant matures. In tropical outdoor climates (USDA Zones 9-11), plants grown in the ground with ample warmth and humidity can grow noticeably larger. Because of its self-heading, non-vining growth habit, it maintains a relatively tidy footprint for its visual impact — but be prepared to give it a generous corner or floor space as it matures. Allow for at least a 3-foot diameter space when selecting a permanent indoor location.

Philodendron Lickety Split is rated for USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11. In the warmer frost-free and near-frost-free areas of Southern Oregon and Northern California — particularly in protected microclimates, coastal areas, and valley locations — it can be grown outdoors year-round as a dramatic landscape or patio specimen. It cannot tolerate sustained frost or temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, so in areas that experience occasional winter cold snaps, it should be grown in a container that can be moved indoors when freezing temperatures threaten. In colder regions, it thrives as a full-time indoor tropical houseplant that can be placed outside during the warm summer months to accelerate growth.

Lickety Split grows best in bright to medium indirect or filtered light indoors. A position near an east-facing window, which provides gentle morning sun, is ideal. It will also perform well near a north-facing window or set back several feet from a south- or west-facing window where bright indirect light is available. Lower light conditions will not typically harm the plant but will noticeably slow its growth rate and may result in smaller leaves. Direct sunlight — especially the intense afternoon sun through south- or west-facing glass — should be avoided, as it can scorch and burn the foliage. Rotate the pot a quarter turn every few weeks so all sides of the plant receive even light exposure and the plant grows symmetrically rather than leaning toward the light source.

Philodendron Lickety Split prefers to have its soil dry out somewhat between waterings. Before watering, insert your finger approximately 2 inches into the potting mix — if the soil at that depth feels dry, it is time to water thoroughly until water flows freely from the drainage holes. If the soil still feels moist, wait a few more days and test again. During the active growing season in spring and summer, watering approximately once every 7 days is a reasonable starting point, though this will vary depending on pot size, light levels, and ambient humidity. Reduce watering frequency in fall and winter when growth slows. Always discard any water that collects in the saucer beneath the pot to prevent the roots from sitting in standing water. Signs of overwatering include yellowing leaves and soggy, compacted soil, while underwatering may present as curling or drooping leaves and dry, brown leaf edges.

This philodendron performs best in a rich, well-draining, aerated potting mix with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH in the range of 5.0 to 6.0. Good drainage is essential — waterlogged, compacted soil is the leading cause of root rot in this plant. A high-quality aroid potting mix works excellently, or you can create your own blend using a combination of standard potting soil, coarse perlite, and peat moss or coco coir to ensure porosity and drainage. A general recipe that works well is approximately 30% potting soil, 30% coarse sand or perlite, 20% well-aged compost or worm castings, and 20% peat moss. Adding a small amount of horticultural charcoal to the mix can also help prevent bacterial buildup in the root zone. Always use a pot with drainage holes.

As a tropical plant, Philodendron Lickety Split thrives in consistently warm temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit without serious harm, though growth will slow noticeably in cooler conditions. Temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can cause cold stress and potential damage to the foliage and roots, and the plant should never be exposed to frost. Avoid placing it near cold drafts, air conditioning vents, heating registers, or exterior doors that are frequently opened in winter. Regarding humidity, Lickety Split prefers a moderate to high relative humidity of 50% or above — consistent with its tropical origins. Most typical household humidity levels are adequate for healthy growth, but in very dry indoor environments (particularly in winter when heating systems reduce indoor humidity), consider using a room humidifier, grouping plants together, or occasionally misting the foliage in the morning to boost moisture levels around the plant.

Feed Philodendron Lickety Split during its active growing season in spring and summer to support the development of those large, dramatic leaves. Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (such as a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 formulation) diluted to half the recommended strength once every four to six weeks. For especially vigorous, fast-growing plants in high-light conditions, a monthly feeding schedule is appropriate. Using a diluted, water-soluble fertilizer reduces the risk of fertilizer salt burn to the roots. Do not fertilize in fall or winter when the plant is in a slower dormant phase, as unused fertilizer salts can accumulate in the soil and damage the root system. If white crusty deposits appear on the surface of the potting mix, flush the pot thoroughly with plain water to leach out accumulated salts before resuming the fertilizing schedule.

Philodendron Lickety Split requires minimal pruning to maintain its appearance. Remove any yellowed, dead, or damaged leaves at the base of the stem using clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears that have been sterilized with rubbing alcohol between cuts. Pruning lower and older leaves as they naturally fade is normal — the plant replaces them with vigorous new growth from the center of the rosette. If the plant becomes oversized for its space, selective pruning of individual stems just below a leaf node can help control the overall size and encourage new, compact growth to fill in. Always wear gloves when pruning, as the plant's sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that can cause skin irritation. Regularly wipe the large, glossy leaves with a soft, damp cloth to remove dust accumulation, which can impede light absorption and invite fungal problems. Allow the leaves to dry fully after cleaning.

Philodendron Lickety Split is not an especially rapid grower and generally needs repotting only once every one to two years. The best indicator that your plant is ready to be repotted is the appearance of roots circling the bottom of the pot, emerging from drainage holes, or visibly pushing above the soil surface. Repotting is best performed in early spring at the beginning of the growing season. Choose a new pot that is only 2 to 4 inches larger in diameter than the current container — jumping to an oversized pot introduces too much excess soil that retains moisture and greatly increases the risk of root rot. Use fresh, well-draining aroid potting mix when repotting. After repotting, water thoroughly and place the plant in its usual location, reducing watering slightly for the first few weeks while the root system adjusts and establishes in the new container.

Philodendron Lickety Split can be propagated by stem cuttings or air layering, with stem cuttings being the most common and accessible method. Spring or early summer is the ideal time to propagate.

• Stem Cuttings in Soil: Select a healthy stem section 4 to 7 inches in length that includes at least 2 to 3 leaves. Remove any foliage from the lower portion of the cutting. Plant the cutting in a small pot filled with moist, well-draining potting mix. Provide bright, indirect light and keep the soil consistently moist (not soggy). New root development typically occurs within 3 to 4 weeks.
• Stem Cuttings in Water: Place the cutting in a clean jar or vase of room-temperature water, ensuring the node (the point where a leaf attaches) is submerged. Keep in indirect light and change the water every few days. Roots often develop within 2 weeks. Once roots are 1 to 2 inches long, transplant into potting mix.
• Air Layering: Make a shallow angled cut just below a healthy node on the stem and dust with rooting hormone powder. Pack moist sphagnum moss around the cut, wrap with clear plastic film, and secure at both ends. When visible roots have grown into the moss (typically 2 to 4 weeks), cut the stem below the rooted section and pot it up in fresh potting mix.

Philodendron Lickety Split is generally robust and fairly resistant to pests and disease when grown in appropriate conditions, but a few common issues can arise.

• Mealybugs: Small, cottony white masses often found in leaf axils and on stems. Treat by isolating the plant, removing visible bugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, and applying neem oil or insecticidal soap spray.
• Scale: Brown, waxy bumps on stems and leaf undersides that suck plant sap. Treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap; persistent infestations may require repeated applications.
• Aphids: Small soft-bodied insects clustering on new growth. Knock off with a steady stream of water and follow up with a neem oil or insecticidal soap treatment.
• Spider Mites: Tiny pests that cause stippled, yellowing foliage and fine webbing on leaves. Increase humidity around the plant and treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap.
• Root Rot: Caused by overwatering or poorly draining soil. Symptoms include wilting, yellowing, and a foul smell from the soil. If detected early, remove the plant from its pot, trim away all blackened or mushy roots with sterilized scissors, and repot in fresh, well-draining mix.
• Fungal Leaf Spots: Can occur when foliage remains wet for extended periods. Avoid overhead watering and allow leaves to dry fully after misting. Improve air circulation around the plant.

As a preventive measure, regularly wipe foliage with a damp cloth, inspect the undersides of leaves during routine care, and avoid using harsh chemicals like dish soap or rubbing alcohol directly on leaf surfaces, as these can cause burns.

Philodendron Lickety Split is toxic to humans, cats, and dogs. All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which cause a burning and irritating sensation in the mouth and throat if chewed or ingested. Symptoms of ingestion in pets and people can include drooling, pawing at the mouth, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. In rare cases, significant ingestion can cause swelling of the oral tissues and airway. Contact with the plant's sap can also cause mild skin irritation in sensitive individuals. Keep this plant out of reach of children and pets. When pruning or repotting, wear gloves to avoid sap contact with skin. If ingestion is suspected in a pet, contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center promptly. If a child ingests any part of this plant, seek medical advice immediately.

Philodendron Lickety Split is an excellent container plant and can be grown entirely in pots, whether indoors or on a protected patio. Choose a pot with at least one large drainage hole and use a well-draining aroid or tropical potting mix. Terracotta pots are a good choice as they are porous and help prevent soil from staying overly wet, though ceramic or plastic containers work well too as long as drainage is adequate. Because this plant prefers to be slightly root-bound before repotting, avoid selecting an oversized pot. On warm, frost-free days, container-grown Lickety Splits benefit greatly from being placed outdoors in a sheltered spot with bright, indirect light — the increased humidity, air circulation, and ambient light often result in noticeably larger new leaves. Bring containers back indoors before nighttime temperatures drop below 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

The bold, architectural form of Philodendron Lickety Split makes it one of the most versatile statement plants available for both interior and exterior design. Indoors, a mature specimen commands attention as a floor plant in a bright living room, entryway, office lobby, or sunroom corner. Its tropical, jungle-like presence pairs well with modern, bohemian, and mid-century interior styles. The large, glossy leaves provide an excellent vertical element alongside lower-growing houseplants on plant shelves or in grouped arrangements. Outdoors in USDA Zones 9-11, it is effective as a bold accent plant in tropical-themed garden beds, a mass planted understory specimen beneath larger trees, or as a dramatic container plant anchoring an outdoor seating area or covered patio. It pairs especially well with other large-leafed tropical foliage plants such as bird of paradise, cannas, elephant ears, and gingers to create a lush, layered tropical garden effect.

Philodendron Lickety Split is a year-round foliage plant that provides consistent visual interest in every season. During spring and summer — its active growing season — new leaves emerge frequently, each unfurling as a bright, glossy lime green before gradually deepening to a rich, dark jungle green. This two-toned contrast between new and mature foliage is one of the plant's most charming seasonal features. Growth slows noticeably in fall and winter as the plant enters a natural rest period, particularly in cooler or lower-light indoor environments. During this dormant phase, watering and fertilizing should be reduced to match the plant's reduced metabolic activity. Even during winter, the existing mature foliage remains vibrant and attractive, ensuring the plant continues to add life and color to indoor spaces throughout the coldest months of the year.