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How to Raise Your Baby Ducks and Geese
Ducklings and Goslings are fairly easy to raise, if you follow a few simple steps.
The most important thing that many people do not know is that ducks and geese should NEVER have medicated feed. The best thing to feed Ducklings and Goslings is a 21% "non medicated" starter feed. Grange Co-op offers Rogue Game Bird Feed (25RGBF-50RGBF). It is also a good idea to put a vitamin and electrolyte powder in the water to give them a good start. Ducks and Geese drink a good deal more water than chickens.
Ducklings and Goslings do not take heat well, so be sure not to overheat them. They like a temperature of 90-92 degrees for the first 3 days, then 85-90 degrees for days 4 to 7. Thereafter, drop the temperature by approximately 5 degrees per week until they are fully feathered. They must always be able to get away from the heat. Panting and drooping wings are a sign that they are too hot. Once they leave the brooder, it is a good idea to give them a heat lamp at night for the first week or so, unless the weather is very hot. Always make sure they have some shelter and a place to get out of the sun.
Ducklings and Goslings like their feed wet, and adding a little water to the feed (so it is somewhat soupy) helps to keep them from choking. They will also also appreciate fresh greens daily, and bugs and meal worms are a special treat. Sprinkle finely chopped greens in their water to keep them fresh and clean, as they will not eat dirty or wilted feed.
Be sure to always have clean, fresh water available. It should be deep enough to get their heads submerged, to clean out their nostrils and prevent them from getting a condition called "sticky eye", but they should not be able to get their bodies into the water. Duck and Goose feathers are waterproof because they oil them, and young Ducklings and Goslings cannot produce oil until they are several weeks old. When their mother raises them, she will oil their feathers for them, so they can go into the water at an earlier age than when they are artificially brooded.
Ducklings and Goslings can have a chick waterer for the first week or two, and then they should have something deeper. Use a plastic bowl with 2" chicken wire over the top, so they can get their heads in but
can't get into the bowl. The water will need to be changed often, as ducks and geese are dabblers and will get feed into their water constantly. Once they are fully feathered, they will appreciate some swimming water. Always make sure they can get out of the water, or they will drown. A ramp into and out of the swimming pool is a good idea, until they are large enough to get out on their own.
Ducklings and Goslings make quite a mess when eating, and their droppings are prolific and wet. They must be kept clean and dry, so change bedding often. Pine shavings make good bedding for Ducklings and Goslings. You can also raise them on wire mesh.
Use the 21% starter feed for the first 6 weeks or so. Grange Co-op offers Rogue Game Bird Feed (25RGBF-50RGBF) or Rogue Organic Poultry Starter (25ROPS-50ROPS). Then gradually change them over to a 17-18% ration. Grange Co-op offers Rogue All-In-One (25AIO-50AIO). Don't feed layer pellets until they are ready to lay as the calcium content is too high for growing birds. Grange Co-op offers Rogue Egg Pellets (25EP-50EP). Once they begin laying, layer pellets are fine, and they should have free access to oyster shell and and grit. Again, always make sure they have plenty of fresh, clean water.
How to Raise Your Baby Guineas
Guineas require a brooder temperature of approximately 95 degrees for the first week, dropping approximately 5 degrees every 3 days or so until the end of the brooding period. Watch them closely to see if they are comfortable: If they cluster under the lamp, they are too cold; if they stay far away, drop their wings and pant, they are too hot; and if they range all over the brooder, they are comfortable. Always make sure they have a place to get away from the heat. They are usually fairly quiet when they are happy. Guineafowl can go outside when they are fully feathered. You may want to still give them heat at night if the weather is chilly.
Guineas require a 28% protein starter feed. Grange Co-op offers Rogue Turkey Game Bird Feed (25TG-50TG). Feed them a starter feed for approximately 6-8 weeks, then gradually change over to a 16% to 17% protein all-purpose ration. Grange Co-op offers Rogue All-In-One (25AIO-50AIO) or Rogue Organic Poultry Feed (50OPF). After the first couple of weeks, you can sprinkle a little chick grit on their feed, like you would salt your food.
Never give Guinea keets cold water, or they may become chilled and die. Use only lukewarm water. Change their water daily, or more often if it gets dirty. Use a no-drown waterer with a small gamebird base, or if you must use a chick waterer, place marbles into the water to keep them from getting into it, but they will still be able to drink.
Guinea keets must be kept dry and warm, as they are very fragile when they are young. Keep their litter clean and dry. Once they are fully feathered, they are very hardy and rarely catch diseases or become ill. Never catch them by their legs like a chicken, as the legs are delicate and can break easily if you do this.
Guineas do not do well with pelleted feed, but like crumbles and seeds. They will appreciate cracked corn, whole wheat, millet, sunflower seeds, greens and bugs as treats. In fact, you can easily train guineas to come in at night by teaching them to come for treats. We use whole wheat and call "guinea, guinea, guinea", and they all come flocking to their pen.
Once they are out of the brooder, keep them in their pen for 2-4 weeks, then you can begin to let them range during the day. It is best to lock them up at night, as you will lose many of them to predators (especially owls) at night, even though they may roost in the trees. A high roost or two in their pen will keep them happy. Many hens are also lost once they lay their nest full of eggs and begin to set. Either gather the eggs daily, or if you wish them to set, try and keep them in a pen with a quiet, dark area where they can lay their eggs and set on them. They usually begin to set once they have 25-35 eggs in a nest. Make sure they can't take their keets out into the dewy grass or they will become wet and chilled and you will lose them. They do not make very good mothers, unless they have a dry, secure place to raise their young.
Many people ask how to sex guineafowl. The most simple and accurate way is to listen to their voices. Hens will have a two-syllable call that sounds something like "buckwheat, buckwheat" (only hens can make this call). Both can make a one-syllable call like "kickkkkk kickkkkk". The males also have larger gills or wattles, and they are slightly cup-shaped. Their helmets (the part sticking up on top of the head) are larger as well.
Guineafowl will help keep your property free of ticks, snakes, and insects, and will warn you if anything is amiss. Guineas are very noisy and will make quite a racket when anything is out of the ordinary, or sometimes just for the fun of it.
How to Raise Baby Pheasant, Chukar & Quail
Pheasants, Chukar, and Quail require a brooder temperature of approximately 95 degrees for the first week, dropping approximately 5 degrees every 3 days or so until the end of the brooding period. They will feather out quickly, so they do not require as much heat as chickens and turkeys. Watch them closely to see if they are comfortable: if they cluster under the lamp, they are too cold; if they stay far away, drop their wings and pant, they are too hot; and if they range all over the brooder, they are comfortable. Make sure they always have enough space to get away from the heat. They are usually fairly quiet when they are happy. Lots of peeping means they are either: too cold, too hot or ill. They should be able to go outside by about 4 to 6 weeks. You may want to still give them heat at night if the weather is chilly.
Pheasants, Chukar, and Quail require a 28% protein starter feed. Grange Co-op offers Rogue Turkey Game Bird Feed (25TG-50TG). Grind their feed fine in a blender for the first week or so, as the crumbles can be too large for them to pick up with their little beaks. Feed them a starter feed for approximately 6-8 weeks, then gradually change over to a 16% to 17% protein all-purpose ration. Grange Co-op offers Rogue All-In-One (25AIO-50AIO) or Rogue Organic Poultry Feed (50OPF). After the first couple of weeks, you can sprinkle a little chick grit on their feed.
Never give Pheasants, Chukar or Quail cold water, or they may become chilled and die. Use lukewarm water, and it is a good idea to put vitamins and electrolytes in the water. Quail are strong fliers, so the brooder should be covered after they reach approximately one week of age. They will fly up when startled, so the cover should not be wire, but something soft, like window screen or netting. If wire is used, they will often scalp themselves or even break their necks.
Pheasants have a tendency to be cannibalistic, and if picking is not stopped quickly, you may lose them. Bloody feathers and toes are especially enticing to them. Putting leafy alfalfa hay in the bottom of the brooder will discourage toe picking and give them something to do. Using red or blue heat lamps also helps. You can also clip just the tip of the beak off to keep them from getting a good grip. Crowding and lack of cover to hide seem to exacerbate this problem. Picking is very difficult to discourage in Ringnecks, but is much less of a problem with ornamentals like the Goldens.
How to Raise Baby Turkeys
Turkey poults are fairly easy to raise, if you follow a few simple steps.
Turkey poults love heat. They will be happiest if you keep their brooder temperature at 95-100 degrees for the first week, then lower the temperature by about 5 degrees per week until they are fully feathered, approximately 6-8 weeks old. They will still appreciate a heat lamp at night for a few weeks after this period if the nights are cool. You can tell if they are comfortable by the way they arrange themselves in the brooder: all clumped under the heat source, they are too cold; all far away from the heat source, they are too hot; spread all over the brooder, they are comfortable. They will also cheep if they are cold or ill, and will be fairly quiet if they are happy. Always make sure they have room to get away from the heat.
Keep them clean and dry. Pine shavings or rice hulls make good bedding. Never brood them on slick surfaces like newspaper. Never give a turkey poult cold water, as it can kill them. (Cold water can be deadly to turkey poults) The water should always be lukewarm, and it is a good idea to add a vitamin and electrolyte supplement to their water. You can also get them eating and drinking well by placing shiny colored marbles in the feed and water to get their attention. Change waterers daily or when they get dirty.
Turkeys need higher protein than Chickens. The poults will need a 28% protein starter for the first 6-8 weeks. Grange Co-op offers Rogue Turkey Game Bird Feed (25TG-50TG). After that you can change them over to a feed with an 18% protein. Grange Co-op offers Rogue All-In-One (25AIO-50AIO). Never feed them layer pellets, as the calcium level is too high for growing birds. When they are about 3 weeks old, you can start sprinkling a little chick grit on their feed. Do not give them scratch until they are at least 8 weeks old, then you can give them a little as a treat. Grange Co-op offers Rogue Hen Scratch (25HS-50HS). When the hens begin to lay they should have free choice access to grit and oyster shell. They will appreciate greens, bread, garden trimmings and other treats as well.
Turkeys are very personable birds and you can easily teach them to eat out of your hand, come to your call, and they will often follow you around, begging for treats and attention. The more you handle them, the tamer they will become. Contrary to popular belief, turkeys do not drown in the rain, although young birds have been known to become ill and die if they become wet and chilled. They can be a very enjoyable bird to have around.
Heritage turkeys, the old-style varieties that are still naturally mating, are long-lived and hardy. Broadbreasted varieties are typically used only for meat, so they are not meant to be raised beyond 16 to 20 weeks. If you wish to use heritage turkeys for meat birds, it will take 6-8 months to grow them to eating size. They also make good breeding or show stock and pets. They are much more disease-resistant than broad-breasted varieties, and will do well on free-range or in pens.
How to Raise Chickens & Bantams
Chicks and Bantams must be kept dry and warm, as they are very fragile when they are young. Keep their litter clean and dry. NEVER brood Chicks or Bantams on cedar shavings or on slippery surfaces. Pine shavings, rice hulls or shredded newspaper make good bedding for Chicks. You can also raise them on wire mesh.
Chicks and Bantams require a brooder temperature of approximately 95 degrees for the first week, dropping approximately 5 degrees per week until the end of the brooding period. Watch them closely to see if they are comfortable--if they cluster under the lamp, they are too cold; if they stay far away, drop their wings and pant, they are too hot; and if they range all over the brooder, they are comfortable. Always make sure they have room to get away from the heat source. Chicks and Bantams are usually fairly quiet when they are happy, lots of peeping means they are either too cold, too hot or ill. Chicks and Bantams can go outside when they are fully feathered. You may want to still give them heat at night if the weather is chilly.
Feed Chicks and Bantams a 21% protein starter feed for the first 6-8 weeks. Grange Co-op offers "medicated" Rogue Starter Broiler (25SB-50SB), "unmedicated" Rogue Game Bird Feed (25RGBF-50RGBF) or Organic Poultry Feed (50OPF). Meat birds can be fed Rogue Game Bird Feed or Rogue Organic Poultry Feed from start to finish.
After the first couple of weeks, you can sprinkle a little chick grit on their feed. You can also give them finely cracked corn mixed with their feed to help prevent pasting. Grange Co-op offers Rogue Chick Scratch (25RCS). Do not feed layer pellets until approximately one month before your hens are ready to lay, Grange Co-op offers Rogue Egg Pellets (25EP-50EP). Make sure they have free choice oyster shell and hen grit available.
Never give Chicks or Bantams cold water, or they may become chilled and die. Use only lukewarm water. Change their water daily, or more often if it gets dirty. Use a no-drown waterer with a small base, specially made for Chicks and Bantams. It is also a good idea to put a vitamin and electrolyte powder in the water to give them a good start. You can also place shiny marbles in the water and feed to attract them.
When first placing Chicks or Bantams into a new brooder, be sure to dip the beak of each chick into the waterer and watch to see that it swallows. You can then dip their beak in the feed. This should help them find feed and water easily. Feed is best placed on a paper towel or shallow tray for the first few days, until the Chicks or Bantams find feed easily. You can then place the feed in chick/ bantam feeders. To keep them from scratching in their feed and dirtying and wasting it, use a feeder with a special lid with holes for the Chicks and Bantams to eat from, or with a reel to keep them from getting into the feeder.
As your Chicks or Bantams grow and begin to feather out, they will sometimes begin to pick at each other. Using a red or blue heat lamp helps with this, as does giving them shiny objects (such as CDs, mirrors, etc. hung around the brooder) to peck at. One of the best ways to discourage Chicks and Bantams from picking is to use pine tar (usually found in the horse section). Smear a little of it on the picked area with a stick, enough to cover but not a huge, gooey glob. Reapply as necessary. They seem to hate the taste (and maybe the smell) of it, and it works much better than antipick lotion.
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Ducklings and Goslings do not take heat well, so be sure not to overheat them. They like a temperature of 90-92 degrees for the first 3 days, then 85-90 degrees for days 4 to 7. Thereafter, drop the temperature by approximately 5 degrees per week until they are fully feathered. They must always be able to get away from the heat. Panting and drooping wings are a sign that they are too hot. Once they leave the brooder, it is a good idea to give them a heat lamp at night for the first week or so, unless the weather is very hot. Always make sure they have some shelter and a place to get out of the sun.
Ducklings and Goslings can have a chick waterer for the first week or two, and then they should have something deeper. Use a plastic bowl with 2" chicken wire over the top, so they can get their heads in but
can't get into the bowl. The water will need to be changed often, as ducks and geese are dabblers and will get feed into their water constantly. Once they are fully feathered, they will appreciate some swimming water. Always make sure they can get out of the water, or they will drown. A ramp into and out of the swimming pool is a good idea, until they are large enough to get out on their own.
Ducklings and Goslings make quite a mess when eating, and their droppings are prolific and wet. They must be kept clean and dry, so change bedding often. Pine shavings make good bedding for Ducklings and Goslings. You can also raise them on wire mesh.
Never give Pheasants, Chukar or Quail cold water, or they may become chilled and die. Use lukewarm water, and it is a good idea to put vitamins and electrolytes in the water. Quail are strong fliers, so the brooder should be covered after they reach approximately one week of age. They will fly up when startled, so the cover should not be wire, but something soft, like window screen or netting. If wire is used, they will often scalp themselves or even break their necks.
Never give Chicks or Bantams cold water, or they may become chilled and die. Use only lukewarm water. Change their water daily, or more often if it gets dirty. Use a no-drown waterer with a small base, specially made for Chicks and Bantams. It is also a good idea to put a vitamin and electrolyte powder in the water to give them a good start. You can also place shiny marbles in the water and feed to attract them.
